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BBQ Shrimp are another decadent New Orleans dish, as well as an example of the odd lexicon of New Orleans. There is nothing barbeque about this dish, at all. The star here is butter. Think shrmip scampi to the extreme. A friend of mine invited me out to Pascal’s Manale, an institution on Napoleon, a few blocks from St. Charles. You will see on their website that there is a tab for “Location”, with no (s). These guys could have franchised years ago, but instead focus on what they do best: serving Italian-Creole food. Not that the Grub Blogger knows anything about their Italian food. Memories of PM’s focus on eating some the bet raw oysters in the city while while waiting for your table; being humbled as your waiter puts a paper bib around your neck, and gorging on one the least health-conscious seafood dishes around. My waiter told me not to worry, though, as long as I went our and drank beer all night, the cholesterol would wash away. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Seafood, Shrimp
Red beans and rice is a classic New Orleans dish, traditionally made on wash days (Mondays), where it could simmer all day as the chores were being done. Red kidney beans are slowly cooked into a creamy paste with plenty of pork to lubricate the lot. Typical Cajun seasonings give flavor, depth and spice to this lovely dish. While at Tulane in New Orleans, the Grub Blogger took a class on the literature of the Vietnam War with an adjunct professor. The class met every Wednesday evening, so he told us that instead of having our normal class the day after Mardi Gras, we were all invited to his (swank) place to chow down on red beans and rice and watch Apocalypse Now on his huge projection screen television. Read more…
Andouille, Beans, Cajun / Creole
Pickled Pork. It just sounds hardcore - and almost oxymoronic. It took me long enough to get used to pickled anything other than cucumbers. But, this is just another way that pork takes on a new flavor as it is being preserved. This is definitely a Southern thing, and the pickled pork the Grub Blogger made is Cajun style, taken directly from Chuck Taggart’s awesome site, The Gumbo Pages. This recipe sounded so good, I barely searched elsewhere, and since pickling pork is not something I learned in cooking school or can relate to other experiences, I figured I had better follow a master and give full credit. Pickled pork is used as a flavoring agent in soup and stews (especially beans - see Red Beans and Rice Method) and is sold in just about every supermarket in New Orleans. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Charcuterie, Pickled Pork, Porcine Revolution
Catfish are pretty ugly creatures, but good, and usually cheap, eating. I had forms of catfish growing up in our fish tank, but never saw the real thing until I got to New Orleans. We used to drive out to Middendorf’s in Manchac, Lousiana, on Lake Maurepas, about 40 miles northwest of the city, to chow on fried catfish and take back a trunk full of fillets to freeze and cook up for a couple of months, before our next expedition up Lake Pontchartrain. Trying to mimic the goods at Middendorf’s, we would fry up our fillets and turn out pretty good stuff for a home kitchen. Over the years the Grub Blogger has picked up a few tricks on frying, and now avoids the splattering and sometime greasy end product of his college years.
The two keys to good frying are having sufficient oil and enough heat to cook and not poach. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Catfish, Seafood
Blackened fish fillets has become the prototypical Cajun dish, served as restaurants across the country trying to get a little bit of the New Orleans spirit onto their menu. The Grub Blogger sees nothing wrong with this, but none of those places are serving the real deal - a red fish fillet, doused in melted butter and quickly sauteed on a screaming hot cast iron pan. This is always done outdoors, because of the smoke that comes from the quickly seared fillet. Still, that is really hardcore, and finding red fish is not that easy. Here, I hope my recipe falls somewhere in between the outdoor Cajun cook and what you’d find at a pretty good restaurant making an honest try at it. One thing I do use is cast iron. If you don’t have one, these are great pans. With a little work, you end up with a pan that can be used for many years, with a non-stick surface that no DuPont scientist could match. This happens when you season the pan, which means greasing it up witht a little oil or manteca when clean, and hopefully still a little warm, and wiping it down so only a very thin layer is left. That is what folk mean by a well-seasoned pan. I like to say that I boughy my pan for my grandchildren to use, I am just seasoning it up for them. Cast iron is great for blackening, because the heavy-duty pan holds the heat well, with out burning the flesh. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Catfish, Seafood
Trout Meuniere is a classic French dish, that gets a few tweaks in Lousiana. Meuniere translates into English as “the miller’s wife”, so flour plays an important role in this dish. For my attempt, I used Chef Frank Brigsten’s suggestions on this great video from a series called Cooking, New Orleans style! that the New Orleans Times Picayune ran a few years ago. In France, the trout is dredged in butter and cooked in browned butter (boire noisette) and served with a little parsley and lemon juice. In New Orleans, they fry up the fish first, producing a crispy crust, and use cajun seasoning and either shrimp or crawfish, along with some stock, to build up a more decadent sauce than the French produce. I went with crawfish tails and some shrimp stock I had in the freezer. This is a luxurious dish that takes some technique and timing to nail down. The Grub Blogger was definitely reaching back into his cooking school days to execute this dish. Start off with some trout fillets, skin on, which you season with s+p. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Fish, Seafood
Oysters Rockefeller is the dish that put escargot to shame for the Grub Blogger. I had always thought that snail drenched in hot garlic-parsley butter was as decadent as seafood could get, but oysters brolied in butter flavored with aromatics blew me away when I had them at some of the fancier spots in New Orleans. I love oysters raw, and usually hit them with a whiff of lemon juice and hot sauce, if anything. But this dish, which is supposed to be as rich as a Rockefeller, is the best way I have eaten oysters. When I fed these to my lady, I told her that what she was tasting was a better explanation as to what New Orleans is like than any stories I could come up with. The decadent flavor of the oyster and butter, mixed with the vibrance of the fresh greens, bite of Tabasco sauce and the licorice-flavored tarragon and absinthe had me back at Galatoire’s or Antoine’s. Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Oysters, Seafood
The word jambalaya comes from the French words for “ham” (jambon) and “with” or “in the style of” (a la) and the word of African derivation for rice (yaya). The ham in this case is actually andouille sausage, although you can throw in diced up ham, and it would be really good. I went for the classic chicken and sausage jambalaya. The first few jambalayas I made had the deep, rich spicy flavor I was looking for, but came out in a mushy mess that was less than appetizing. Read more…
Andouille, Cajun / Creole, Jambalaya, Rice Dish
Andouille is a heavily spiced pork sausage which is smoked. When I can, I like to mail-order mine from Jacob’s World Famous Andouille in LaPlace, Lousianna. I usually like to brown off the sausage to intensify flavor and help keep it from falling apart if using in a stew or beans. Pretty simple. Slice, brown and reserve. I like to brown it in the same pot I will be cooking the rest of the meal, to use a a bulding block for my flavor base. Read more…
Andouille, Cajun / Creole, Sausage
Etoufee means “smothered” in French, so we are smothering some fresh shrimp with a sauce, made from shrimp stock, thicken with a roux and flavored with tomato and spices. The sauce is rich and spicy, with all the levels of flavor held together by the flour-thickened shrimp stock. Some white rice and maybe some good french bread, and you have a hearty dinner. You can use the same basic technique with crawfish or chicken. This dish is a good introduction to cajun/creole cooking because it uses the spices, aromatics and involves a roux, which are the key elements of southern Louisiana cusine. This is a good roux to start with, as well, because you don’t need it very dark (meaning it doesn’t take long to make and there is just about no risk of burning). Read more…
Cajun / Creole, Etouffee, Seafood, Shrimp