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Archive for October, 2009

Fried Catfish

October 15th, 2009

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ctfsh fried clse upCatfish are pretty ugly creatures, but good, and usually cheap, eating.  I had  forms of catfish growing up in our fish tank, but never saw the real thing until I got to New Orleans.  We used to drive out to Middendorf’s in Manchac, Lousiana, on Lake Maurepas, about 40 miles northwest of the city, to chow on fried catfish and take back a trunk full of fillets to freeze and cook up for a couple of months, before our next expedition up Lake Pontchartrain.  Trying to mimic the goods at Middendorf’s, we would fry up our fillets and turn out pretty good stuff for a home kitchen.  Over the years the Grub Blogger has picked up a few tricks on frying, and now avoids the splattering and sometime greasy end product of his college years.

The two keys to good frying are having sufficient oil and enough heat to cook and not poach.   Read more…

Cajun / Creole, Catfish, Seafood

Blackened Catfish

October 15th, 2009

ctfsh blck up closeBlackened fish fillets has become the prototypical Cajun dish, served as restaurants across the country trying to get a little bit of the New Orleans spirit onto their menu.  The Grub Blogger sees nothing wrong with this, but none of those places are serving the real deal - a red fish fillet, doused in melted butter and quickly sauteed on a screaming hot cast iron pan.  This is always done outdoors, because of the smoke that comes from the quickly seared fillet.  Still, that is really hardcore, and finding red fish is not that easy.  Here, I hope my recipe falls somewhere in between the outdoor Cajun cook and what you’d find at a pretty good restaurant making an honest try at it.  One thing I do use is cast iron.  If you don’t have one, these are great pans.  With a little work, you end up with a pan that can be used for many years, with a non-stick surface that no DuPont scientist could match.  This happens when you season the pan, which means greasing it up witht a little oil or manteca when clean, and hopefully still a little warm, and wiping it down so only a very thin layer is left.  That is what folk mean by a well-seasoned pan.  I like to say that I boughy my pan for my grandchildren to use, I am just seasoning it up for them.  Cast iron is great for blackening, because the heavy-duty pan holds the heat well, with out burning the flesh.   Read more…

Cajun / Creole, Catfish, Seafood

Trout Meuniere

October 8th, 2009

tour men closeTrout Meuniere is a classic French dish, that gets a few tweaks in Lousiana.  Meuniere translates into English as “the miller’s wife”, so flour plays an important role in this dish.  For my attempt, I used Chef Frank Brigsten’s suggestions on this great video from a series called Cooking, New Orleans style! that the New Orleans Times Picayune ran a few years ago.  In France, the trout is dredged in butter and cooked in browned butter (boire noisette) and served with a little parsley and lemon juice.  In New Orleans, they fry up the fish first, producing a crispy crust, and use cajun seasoning and either shrimp or crawfish, along with some stock, to build up a more decadent sauce than the French produce.  I went with crawfish tails and some shrimp stock I had in the freezer.  This is a luxurious dish that takes some technique and timing to nail down.  The Grub Blogger was definitely reaching back into his cooking school days to execute this dish.  Start off with some trout fillets, skin on, which you season with s+p. Read more…

Cajun / Creole, Fish, Seafood

Oysters Rockefeller

October 2nd, 2009

oystr rock closeOysters Rockefeller is the dish that put escargot to shame for the Grub Blogger.  I had always thought that snail drenched in hot garlic-parsley butter was as decadent as seafood could get, but oysters brolied in butter flavored with aromatics blew me away when I had them at some of the fancier spots in New Orleans.  I love oysters raw, and usually hit them with a whiff of lemon juice and hot sauce, if anything.  But this dish, which is supposed to be as rich as a Rockefeller, is the best way I have eaten oysters.  When I fed these to my lady, I told her that what she was tasting was a better explanation as to what New Orleans is like than any stories I could come up with.  The decadent flavor of the oyster and butter, mixed with the vibrance of the fresh greens, bite of Tabasco sauce and the licorice-flavored tarragon and absinthe had me back at Galatoire’s or Antoine’s. Read more…

Cajun / Creole, Oysters, Seafood

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